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IFS Lifts Done Right
MICHAEL HAYES TALKS ABOUT COMPONENTS NEEDED WHEN LIFTING AN IFS 4WD.
Independent suspension lift kits may be the most complex lifts of all, especially when you start looking at lifts over 3 inches.
Changes in the angles of the control arms, steering rods, and the CV axles start to create very unique problems. With lifts at or above 3 inches, generally the first sign of trouble is the alignment of the front suspension. This is often best addressed by relocating the upper/lower control arm or replacing it. A steeper angle on the upper or lower arm moves the steering knuckle inboard and increases the angularity on the ball joints, sometimes maxing out their movement. The longer or relocated arms solve those issues.
When it comes to upgrading upper control arms for IFS vehicles
the preferable solution is to replace the factory arm with a newly designed upper arm, which allows greater clearance for the thicker or heavier aftermarket coils generally required to lift the vehicle. Ideally to handle the harsh Australian conditions, an arm constructed from 4130 chromoly tube and utilising aircraft-grade spherical bearings, rather than low-angle factory based ball joints, is preferred. Although beware, some adjustable ball joint type arms actually have less travel than factory and are often incredibly expensive to service or replace.
Greaseable joints or caps are a must to ensure long service life and maximum performance. Mounting tabs to attach the ABS sensor lines and premium bushes, and combined with a greasing system, are key features to look for.
Figure 1 : Superior IFS suspension display stand
featuring a coilover shock with some upper control arms and chassis mount
Another common element is a modified knuckle where the distance between the ball joints is increased to return the arms to more factory-type range. Many times, the steering arm is relocated to lessen the angularity on the tie rods.
Some IFS systems relocate the entire suspension and differential at a lower position to obtain lift. This style of kit often requires the cutting of crossmembers, but its advantage is the ability to retain factory-style working geometry while providing 4-7 inches of actual lift.
CV joint angularity
is always a problem with an IFS lift, but it's one usually addressed by the suspension lift kit designer. They calculate the maximum angularity of the inner and outer joints and limit suspension travel to prevent binding. As soon as you lift a vehicle, the increase in CV running angle exponentially increases CV wear - even driving straight ahead is wearing them out due to the nonzero running angle. This wear is constantly accumulating, increasing the risk of a future failure, the added wear dramatically reduces the CV strength and its resistance to shock loading when off-road.
To reduce or avoid
the risk of CV failure, the differential should be lowered when installing a suspension lift. This reduces the CV angles back to within acceptable running tolerances. Ground clearance may be lost directly under the diff, however overall ground clearance across the rest of the vehicle will be improved, as well as approach angle and the ability to fit larger-diameter tyres.
A diff drop kit that lowers the diff centre and also adjusts the running angle of the front driveshaft is a must-have to reduce the chance of driveshaft vibrations. Some basic kits use simple spacers, whereas a comprehensive kit may include fabricated mounts that utilise aftermarket bushings.
The rear suspension is the easiest to adjust
as they more commonly only require a basic leaf or coil lift and the addition of extended brake lines. A tailshaft spacer and brake bias link should also be utilised to safely allow full flex of the new suspension kit.